Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Recently, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a international community of cities cities across over 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as stated by a official from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many echo the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the capital of India's biggest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued discussion from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and elevated to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the mutton galouti was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so soft that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are little shops and carts – little-known treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can visit a no-frills joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also boasts unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but express concern that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy puts it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these stories and experience the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
